You know, there are a lot of people out there doing some really weird stuff. Today, in Keyport Harbor, New Jersey, volunteers with the New York/New Jersey Baykeeper are going to dump 5,000 bushels of oyster shells (that's a lot) into Raritan Bay. Five days later, they'll deposit 10,000 baby oysters on top of the shells. I couldn't believe it either, so I hopped a train and headed straight for Keyport Harbor, a cute little oyster town across the water from Staten Island, where I met Mike Stringer, a 26-year-old who's as committed to saving oysters as I am to eating them. Believe me, that's pretty committed. The project is an expansion of an earlier effort in the upper part of New York harbor. Two years ago, 10,000 bushels of shells were dumped near Liberty Island. Early results were impressive enough to give it another go on the other side of the huge estuary we call home. But this is the amazing part. While Stringer was setting up today's shell drop, about a hundred volunteers -- everyone from Girl Scouts to a guy who lives along the Gowanus Canal (oy!) -- have been raising baby oysters in specially designed traps in preparation for Saturday's bivalve boatlift. Stringer showed off one of the containers, which held a few dozen babies (fortunately, I had eaten on the train or else this endangered species would have been SERIOUSLY in danger). Without a reef, the baby oysters would get trapped under a layer of mud or, worse, get eaten by a crab ("worse" because those oysters are rightfully MINE!). Beyond protection, the best part is that the reef is like one big oyster singles bar. It's not what you think. Oysters don't reproduce by finding Mr. Goodbar, but by spewing millions of sperm and eggs into the water and hoping for some good luck. The fertilized eggs float around until they attach to something hard -- like an old oyster shell on a newly created reef. "So the reef is like one big oyster party," Stringer said. "By clustering oysters on a reef, there's a better chance of fertilization." Who cares about some silly little oysters? Well, anyone with a sense of history. The project's goal is to restore the oyster bed once called Chinagora by the local Indians, who used to haul up oysters by the thousands, oysters the size of dinner plates (where's a time machine when you need one?). Rich oyster beds such as Chinagora were active for thousands of years. For a couple of centuries after the European invasion, oysters were as ubiquitous in colonial New York as the dirty water dogs sold by hot dog vendors today. A few cents bought you a half-dozen blue points or cherrystones that had been plucked from very local waters earlier that day. What we call Liberty and Ellis islands, the Dutch called Oyster islands. Of course, in addition to a hunger for oysters, the white man was famous for something else: a mistaken belief that the resources of the New World were inexhaustible. By 1900, the settlers had killed their golden goose -- the oyster beds that had made them rich. But that process is going to start changing this weekend. The goal is more than to birth a few thousand oysters. Over the long term, Baykeeper hopes to create new beds all around New York City. And don't worry, Baykeeper is not some a crazy animal rights group hell bent on saving the oysters at the expense of your (or, more important, my) stomach. If all goes according to plan, someday you'll be able to go to The Oyster Bar and order up a plate of Ellis Island oysters on the half-shell. That would be fine by Stringer (even though the oysters you'd be ordering would be the offspring of the babies he and his volunteers raised). "It's a shame that there are no oysters to eat from New York harbor," he said. "Our water is actually the cleanest it's been in a century, yet there are no oysters down there. So if this works, we'll be happy that there'll be oysters to eat." He's hardly the only one. --30-- email: gershny@yahoo.com