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Metro Gnome
THE hat that liberated Afghanistan is coming to New
York.
You've seen them on the front line and on the front page,
our heroic Northern Alliance allies donning their supersized
skullcaps for battle against the turban-favoring Taliban.
But now, thanks as much to all the media exposure as the
Northern Alliance's military successes, the cap - called a
pakoul - is already showing up on the heads of style-seeking
New Yorkers.
"I'm completely sold out," said Zabi Faqiri, owner of an
Afghani market in Flushing, Queens. "Everyone wants one of
them right now. My cousin in Pakistan is going to send me 100
more this week."
For Northern Alliance soldiers, the hats are a symbol of
defiance. Legendary rebel leader Ahmed Shah Massoud, who was
assassinated on Sept. 9, turned the pakoul into an icon of
rebellion, like Fidel's cigar, Lenin's goatee or Lennon's
mop-top.
The pakoul even became a matter of life and death, as
Taliban militants threatened to shoot anyone who wore one. But
now, with the Taliban in retreat, the pakoul is a hat in which
to be seen. Combine it with a shoulder-held grenade launcher,
and you look like a warrior.
And, without the grenade launcher, you look like a hip New
Yorker.
So it's no wonder that the trendiest designers are rushing
out versions of the brave beanie, taking their inspiration
straight from the battlefields of Kunduz and the front-page
photos.
In fact, that's the point.
"In my professional opinion, let the fad begin!" said Ivy
Supersonic, whose curious chapeaux have adorned the
likes of Pamela Anderson, Dennis Rodman and Snoop Dogg.
"Fashion is all about timing, and these hats are everywhere."
Supersonic's version of the pakoul - "The Supersonic Allies
Hat," which will soon be on sale at www.ivysupersonic.com - is
inspired by the cap's better-known uncle, the beret. But where
the beret has come to signify an artistic effeteness (think a
withered Picasso in his gray period), the pakoul exists at
that lively intersection of sophistication and underground.
The pakoul made a brief appearance in New York during our
nation's last flirtation with Afghan chic, when an earlier
generation of freedom fighters was battling the hated Soviets.
But, as with Hula Hoops and yo-yos, the fad came and went.
But there are indications that, this time, pakouls are no
mere passing fancy.
"There was already a Middle Eastern influence working its
way through the fashion world even before Sept. 11," said hat
designer Eugenia Kim, owner of the eponymous boutique on East
4th Street. "But this hat is stylish. I've already gotten
requests from magazines to make something similar."
Kim, whose own beret designs have a distinct Afghan
influence, believes that the pakoul has become such a dominant
object that it is already disassociated from its military
significance.
"If I saw a guy walking down the street in one of those, I
wouldn't think ‘Northern Alliance,' I'd think, ‘He's kinda
cute,'" she said.
Well, unlike Kim, I actually did see a guy walking
down the street yesterday in a pakoul. He didn't speak any
English, but he spoke in the international language of style.
"New Yorkers are going to love this hat," Faqiri told me.
"Massoud wore it, so it is a proud hat. Plus, it's really good
in the cold."
email: gershny@yahoo.com