//metrognome logo// Very few people in Little Italy know exactly what to make of Pete Moceo and his new shop, Rice to Riches, which is believed to be the only rice-pudding parlor in America. Moceo rented the storefront on Spring Street more than a year ago. He was supposed to open last fall. Then December. Then February. It got so bad that last month he put a sign in the window: "Now in our second glorious year of construction! The Earth was created in six days…Good thing we weren't in charge!" But at long last, Rice to Riches will open tomorrow. April Fool's Day?! Moceo swears it's no joke. "We're opening," he said. "Otherwise, I jump off this building." He may anyway. After all, he's selling rice pudding. You don't have to be a killjoy to think Rice to Riches will go the way of other failed culinary crazes like "gourmet" pretzels, "California" pizza, and restaurants where they cook your steak at the table. Or, as Time Out New York said in its preview of Moceo's opening: "Rice pudding fanatics -- all three of you -- will be elated." Pete Moceo has a few words for all these naysayers. They've never had rice pudding. "This is not the grainy rice pudding that diners make with leftover rice," he said. "Ours feels great in the mouth." Moceo always wanted to do something with rice, but he scrapped his first idea -- a rice-themed restaurant -- after visiting Italy. Inspired by all the chic gelato stands, Moceo spent the next two years working with pastry chef Jemal Edwards to "take rice pudding to the next level." Edwards's exotic concoctions -- like "Surrender to Mango" and "Chocolate Cherry Crime Scene" -- are delicious. But they're so rich, creamy and flavorful that I couldn't help wishing that he'd leave out the rice and make that somewhat-less-obscure object of desire known as ice cream. Moceo disagreed. "The majority of people -- I'd say 99 percent -- like rice pudding." When I questioned his math, Moceo admitted that several landlords refused to rent to him because they were unconvinced that he could pay the rent selling only rice pudding (well, it's not JUST rice pudding; Moceo will sell coffee, too). "We're going to expand quickly," the would-be pudding tycoon said. "Five stores in no time." But even rice pudding fans aren't as optimistic as the name of Moceo's store. "I wouldn't make a special trip for it," said Lawrence Becker, who lives just a mile away. "Maybe he'll start a craze, but then again, crazes end quickly." --30-- gersh.kuntzman@verizon.net